Splitter Day at Lumpy Ridge

Trip Report
November 1, 2008
Sundance Buttress, Lumpy Ridge
Sidetrack 5.9 Trad, 6 pitches
Climbers: Jill Salva and Tim Davis

On Saturday, under partly cloudy skies, Tim and I got a leisurely start leaving the Lumpy trailhead after 8am. The hike out to Sundance Buttress is rather long (for craggin’), yet well worth the effort.

We arrived at the base of Sidetrack in 90 minutes. By then, the thin veil of clouds dissipated revealing blue skies. Using a standard trad rack, we ascended the towering buttress for 6 pitches of awesome crack climbing.

There were two parties on Mainliner (next to us) and one party waiting to climb Sidetrack after us. My favorite part of the climb was the last pitch of 5.9. It was absolutely wonderful!

For a complete route description and climber comments, see the Mountain Project web site.

Have a great week all!

Trip Report: Keyhole Ridge

Trip Report: Keyhole Ridge, Grade III, 5.6
Longs Peak (14,255 ft), RMNP
Descent via Clark’s Arrow and the Loft
Roundtrip ~13 miles
Vert: 4,800+ feet
Climbers: Jill Salva and Kurt Traskos

Yesterday we started late for an alpine outing given the daily monsoons. We signed in at the trailhead at 3:15 am. Our hike up to the boulderfield under load was quick and easy. We passed about 12 people enroute to the Keyhole.

Neither Kurt nor I had climbed this route before, so we relied on beta from the Mountain Project web site. Most Alpine routes are committing and this one was no exception. After a series of class 2 ledges we roped up for fifth class climbing. Our first and subsequent pitches went fast. We did notice two 2-bolt anchors drilled into the east rock at the end of the first pitch.

At 8:30 am the clouds started to build. We continued to watch the weather closely and moved quickly on the terrain. Luck was on our side, the weather held. Of note on the route are the unique views of the Longs Peak towers, the west face wall and the Chiefs Head cirque.

Below is Guy Humphrey’s route description from the Mountain Project. We found it helpful.

“1.) After scrambling up the 2nd class ramp on the east side, follow low 5th class slabs and ledges to the false keyhole. (190ft)

2.) Climb the right side of the tower to the top. Belay in the sun or continue on. (5.5, 75ft)

3.) Climb down a 10ft step and traverse a ledge system on the west side of the ridge to a step. (5.2, 150ft)

4.) Climb one of the crack systems to the top of the small step, downclimb the baskside and follow ledge systems to the next notch.(5.4, 350ft)

5.) Climb slabs to the base of a large right facing dihedral. (5.2, 100ft)

6.) Follow ledge ststems on the east side, while gaining very little elevation. Cool exposure! (5.5, 180ft)

7.) Follow clean slabs up and then left to the next notch (5.2, 190ft)

8.) Climb through the notch, follow ledge systems on the west side, and find a place to belay in the talus. (5.2, 300ft)

9.) Unrope and follow the classic 3rd class ridge to the summit. (600-700ft)”

On the summit we met up with many climbers. There was much chatting and this summit crowd was the friendliest I’ve ever encountered. One guy was celebrating his 39th birthday so we all gathered around him and sang Happy B-day. After trading food and swaping some stories we were on our way down.

We chose to do a full tour of Longs, descending via the Clarks Arrow route, which skirts the Palisades. It was an awesome tour de Longs!

Click here for pics of the day

Have fun out there! Cheers, ~jilly

Trip Report: Petit Grepon, South Face 5.8+

2007/06/28 Petit Grepon, South Face
Grade IV, 5.8+
5 mile approach, +2870’
8 pitches
Jill Salva & Dave Holliday

With the urge to get my Alpine-Face on, I invited Dave for a day of climbing at altitude on the South Face of the Petit Grepon. He’s been getting out a lot this year, logging more than 325 pitches of technical rock in 2007.

You can refer to The Mountain Project web site for the standard South Face ascent and descent details.

Our adventure begins at 2:45 am with Dave arriving at my home. With a standard Alpine rack, and 2-60 meter, 8.5mm ropes we toss our stuff in the car and head up to Rocky Mountain National Park.

Soon enough, Dave and I are on the trail and in just two hours, twenty minutes we hike from the Glacier Gorge Trailhead to the base of the Petit Grepon. There is already one party climbing the route. Under clear blue skies we get ready to start the climb.

We enjoy the climbing and advance quickly up the route. Near the summit we see some low clouds building, then the skies go electric. With the rock audibly sizzling, we quickly and effortlessly tie our ropes together and setup the first of a series of rappels. Once safely down to our big packs, we change into trail shoes and begin our 5-mile hike out.

The Petit Grepon, South Face is a stellar rock route with great holds and amazing views. Just be sure you get an early start.