Trip Report: Pitchin’ it out in Eldo2007/07/18
Werk Supp, The Bastille, P1 5.8+
Genesis, Redgarden Wall, P1 5.11a
Northwest Corner, The Bastille, P1 5.9
Climbers: Jill Salva, EJ Nogaski, Kevin Bains
Here’s a brief trip report in the order we climbed.
This mornin’ I met up with my co-workers, Kevin Bains and EJ Nogaski for some Eldo fun. We climbed three stellar pitches.
Werk Supp, The Bastille, P1 5.8+
This is a "super-delicious-wow-is-this-for-real" 150 foot crack/flake system, ending at a ledge with chains. Avoid being pulled right down low. Instead, aim for the ring and climb up from there.
Genesis, Redgarden Wall, P1 5.11a
We spotted an albino praying mantis at the base of this climb. Pitch 1: Crank up through a large left-facing, left-leaning corner into the A-shaped roof. Chalk, chalk, and more chalk. Then, pull (and I mean PULL!) left stemming onto a fantastic foothold near both pitons. Step out onto the face. From here it’s lots of "dainty-ballerina" face climbin’. If it’s a breezeless hot day, like this morning, your shoes may have a tendency to grease down the rock in this section. Continue climbing up following the left side of a 5.9ish flake (chalk, chalk and more chalk) to the 2-bolt anchor.
Northwest Corner, The Bastille, P1 5.9
From the ground you’ll be thinkin’ this route looks downward, slopey and weird. Once you’re on it, under cling working up and left across a slab. Keep your feet low and use a .75 cam down low. Once across the slab climb the left-facing dihedral into the crack. Go up the right side of X-M Pinnacle and up the w-i-d-e crack to the bolt belay.
Thanks guys for a great morning! Have fun and be safe out there. Cheers, ~jilly
